Eating in Guangzhou: The popularity of Cantonese cuisine in modern times

2023-10-27

Author: Huang Jian is well-known that Cantonese cuisine is one of the eight major cuisines in China. As early as the Qing Dynasty, there was a saying of "eating in Guangzhou". Before the Opium War, there were many records of Cantonese cuisine in Hunter's "Guangzhou Ghost Record". Entering the Republic of China, Cantonese cuisine became famous nationwide along with the footsteps of Guangdong merchants and the export of modern Guangdong culture. Beijing Cantonese Restaurant, represented by "Tan Family Cuisine", is still a representative of high-end cuisine to this day; During the Republic of China period, it had already opened and was located on the bustling Nanjing Road in Shanghai. The Xinya Cantonese Restaurant is still an important venue for weddings and banquets in this increasingly international metropolis. Guangdong is bordered by the Wuling Mountains in the north and the sea in the southeast, with rivers intertwined. It is rich in natural resources, rich in seafood, fertile in soil and temperature, abundant in wealth and resources. Vegetables, fruits, and wild vegetables grow rapidly, and bamboo shoots and mushrooms are constantly present throughout the year. Since modern times, with the growth of Guangdong merchants and the continuous export of Guangdong culture, Cantonese cuisine has gradually become popular. The high-end Cantonese cuisine of the late Qing Dynasty and early Republic of China was regarded by the people of that time as "actually possessing the talent of both salty and governing the taste of the world, whether it is the dishes of Huaiyang, Suxi, Sichuan, Fujian, Yanlu, Manchu, Han, European, and American cuisine, mixed with salt and soy sauce, each with exquisite research, so it can excel in the market and be famous at home and abroad". On June 25, 1931, one of the most famous newspapers in Tianjin, the Beijing branch of Yishi Bao, reported under the title "Today's Guangzhou". The opening two paragraphs introduced the special customs of eating in Guangzhou, such as "drinking tea" and "late night snacks". After a long period of media dissemination, Cantonese cuisine has gradually become famous in China, and the saying 'eating in Guangzhou' has begun to take root in people's hearts. People are becoming fashionable to taste Cantonese cuisine, and Cantonese cuisine is gradually becoming more high-end. During the Republic of China, it was popular in Beijing to entertain distinguished guests with Cantonese cuisine. Under the meticulous cooking of Cantonese cuisine masters, abalone, ginseng, wings, and belly dishes that are "completely different from other restaurants" have received praise from diners. Cantonese cuisine has sparked a wave of culinary trends in the social circle of the capital. For a long time after the opening of Shanghai as a port, Guangbang was the largest group of travelers to Shanghai. It was not until the 1880s that the Ningbo Gang opposed it. Scholar Lin Huifeng found in his research on the Guangdong Travel Association in Shanghai that in the monthly magazine "Guangdong Travel Association in Shanghai" published in 1934, it was stated that "Shanghai has traces of Cantonese people in various industries such as industry, commerce, and politics; People from all walks of life, including military, political, commercial, and academic circles, have a superior position among those who travel to Shanghai and Guangdong. For example, in major companies and hotels, almost all of them are dominated by Cantonese people. A seemingly boastful description can also observe the influence of Cantonese people in Shanghai. Due to the large migration of Cantonese people to Shanghai, many of the lifestyle habits of Cantonese people were naturally brought over. Due to the growth of Cantonese merchants, Cantonese cuisine has gradually developed into high-end cuisine. There are two versions of Shanghai cuisine, one is that Beijing, Yang, Ning, Yue, and Hui are listed as the five Shanghai cuisines; When it comes to Beijing, Guangzhou, Yang, Chuan, and Ben Gang, they are the main ones. Although there are differences between the two, Cantonese cuisine occupies one seat. Compared with Beijing Cuisine and other restaurants such as Suzhou Cuisine, Anhui Cuisine Cuisine and Ningbo Cuisine, Guangdong Cuisine Restaurant entered Shanghai late. But Cantonese cuisine has a strong trend of coming from behind to catch up. Shanghai Cantonese restaurants were originally mostly located in the area of North Sichuan Road in Hongkou District. Later, with the development of the Guangbang forces, Cantonese restaurants showed a trend of blooming everywhere. Famous Cantonese restaurants in Shanghai include Xinghualou, Dongya, Guanshengyuan, Xinya, etc. In 1938, there was an article comparing Guangdong

Edit:GuoGuo    Responsible editor:FangZhiYou

Source:gmw.cn

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