How did ancient people view food?
2024-09-09
What should I do if I have tuberculosis? Eat 'Huangqi Steamed Chicken'. There are books as evidence. Kill a young chicken that has never laid eggs, do not touch it with water, remove its internal organs, stuff one or two astragalus into it, put chopsticks on it and steam it in a pot. Sealed tightly on all sides, steamed and taken out, the soup is thick and fresh, which can treat weak and weak diseases. This passage is translated from the ancient book "Suiyuan Shidan" in the Qing Dynasty, which states "Huangqi steamed chicken treats fever (pronounced Tongzhai)". Huang, also known as "tuberculosis", often refers to pulmonary tuberculosis. In addition, severe cases of overwork also belong to the category of "tuberculosis". So, is there any medical basis for this way of eating? The common characteristics of severe patients with tuberculosis and fatigue are weakness and emaciation, both of which are manifestations of qi and blood deficiency. Therefore, nourishing qi and blood is an important means of treatment. Huangqi (Astragalus membranaceus) is a commonly used Qi tonifying medicine. It is listed as a top-grade herb in the "Shennong Bencao Jing" and praised by Li Shizhen as the "strength of Qi tonifying medicine". Modern pharmacological experiments have shown that Astragalus membranaceus has various pharmacological effects, such as strengthening the heart, anti arrhythmic effects, regulating blood pressure, and enhancing the body's immune function. Modern nutrition research shows that chicken meat contains various nutrients such as protein, fat, calcium, phosphorus, iron, thiamine, riboflavin, etc., especially protein, which is rich and contains a lot of unsaturated fatty acids. From this, it can be seen that chicken can be used for physical weakness, postpartum or post illness adjustment, and is also a good source of protein for the elderly and cardiovascular disease patients. Stewed chicken with astragalus is also one of the most common nourishing Tonic Diet today. A few simple sentences in the book reveal a lot of tricks behind it. It can be seen from this that the concept of medicine and food sharing the same origin is very ancient and popular in China. Many ancient food themed books contain rich health and wellness content. Suiyuan Shidan "is a typical representative, written by Yuan Mei (1716-1797), a great scholar of the Qing Dynasty. After spending most of his life at Youyou, he summarized decades of culinary experiences and wrote this book 'Suiyuan Food List'. The whole book is divided into 14 parts, including the notice sheet, the abstinence sheet, the seafood list, the river food list, the special animal list, the miscellaneous animal list, the feather family list, the Shui people's scaled list, the Shui people's scaleless list, the miscellaneous vegetable menu, the small menu, the Dim sum list, the rice Congee list, and the tea and wine list. It discusses in detail more than 300 kinds of dishes popular in China from the 14th to the mid-18th century. In terms of food ingredients, common grains, melons, vegetables, poultry, wild game, birds, fish, etc. are all available. In terms of cooking techniques, there are various methods such as braising, frying, stir frying, steaming, deep frying, stewing, boiling, marinating, marinating, braising, and drunkenness. In terms of the characteristics of the dishes, it mainly introduces the dishes in Jiangsu and Zhejiang provinces, as well as Beijing cuisine, Guangdong cuisine, Anhui Cuisine cuisine, Shandong cuisine and other dishes. In terms of the hierarchy of dietary dishes, the book is not picky at all, offering both rare delicacies and simple meals; There are palace dishes such as Wang Taishou's Eight Treasures Tofu, official dishes such as Yin Wenduan's Honey Ham, as well as temple dishes, folk dishes, ethnic dishes, and street market dishes... These valuable historical documents reflect the prosperity and development of Chinese food culture for future generations. Among the many dishes recommended by Yuan Mei, in addition to frequently using goji berries, tangerine peel, lilies, yams, and Poria cocos as ingredients, medicinal herbs such as Astragalus membranaceus, Atractylodes macrocephala, and Morinda officinalis are also selected to enhance their efficacy - today they are all included in the scope of medicinal and edible foods that can be used as health foods. Interestingly, many cooking principles in the book are identical to today's health concepts. For example, 'when seasoning, it's better to start with a light one' and pay attention to controlling the amount of salt used; Avoid refueling outside to prevent excessive fat intake; The principle of "avoiding excessive heating and avoiding nutrient loss" runs through the entire book of "Suiyuan Food List", advocating for the avoidance of excessive oil consumption. Firstly, eating seasonal dishes has always been a way to maintain health in accordance with natural laws. Yuan Mei believes that cooking dishes should be tailored to the times. The "seasonal notice" in the notice sheet says: "Mustard should be used in summer, pepper in winter... When radish is out of date, the heart is empty, and mountain bamboo shoots are out of date, the taste is bitter... The so-called" four temporal order "means that all things grow in a four temporal order. After the peak period, essence has been exhausted, and their own taste and nutrition have been lost. Secondly, Yuan Mei paid attention to regional differences, and believed that cooking should also be tailored to local conditions. For example, the practice of pork tripe in the special animal list pointed out the difference between the cooking methods of the north and the south: "The best way to cook is to stir fry with boiling oil and add seasonings, which is very crisp. This is also the northern method. The southerners add wine with white water, simmer two sticks of incense, and make it extremely rotten." Interestingly, the practice of "Yangzhou Hongfu Zongzi" is to wrap ham with glutinous rice, a typical southern meat dumplings. Adapting to individual needs is also frequently reflected in books. Yuan Mei believes that children and the elderly should eat small, crispy and soft foods to aid digestion. Like crucian carp, "Tongzhou people can stew it, and the bones and tails are crispy. It is called crispy fish, which is beneficial for children to eat; Sesame vegetables are finely chopped and steamed for consumption... suitable for the elderly; In view of the warming and tonifying of chicken, the book says that chicken porridge and chicken blood are "suitable for the elderly". The reason why Yuan Mei is known as a foodie is that he did not view cooking solely as a skill to satisfy hunger, but rather as a discipline to examine and elevate the level of culinary culture, guiding people to pursue an elegant dining atmosphere and rich cultural enjoyment, and not to be complacent as a "foodie" or "foodie". For example, Yuan Mei strongly opposes the unhealthy practices of extravagance and extravagant eating and drinking, and has pointed out that this is simply a case of 'greed for expensive goods and praise for guests'. In the book, it is said that he once went to a banquet and saw a certain prefect setting up a grand banquet. The bowl was as big as a vat and filled with boiled bird's nest, which was tasteless to eat. The guests were all boasting about it. Yuan Mei smiled and said, "Our generation came to eat bird's nest, not to sell bird's nest." Bird's nest is mostly for sale, but not delicious. What's the use of so many? If it's just for the sake of appearance, why not put a hundred pearls worth tens of thousands of gold in the bowl, regardless of whether they can be eaten or not? Similar dietary habits are not the right way to eat. They not only prevent people from enjoying delicious food, but also cause food waste and harm health. So, to truly experience the profoundness and profundity of Chinese culinary culture, one must eat with taste, moderation, intention, and reason. Yuan Mei's argument still holds significance today. (New Society)
Edit:HAN ZHUOLING Responsible editor:CAICAI
Source:gmw.com
Special statement: if the pictures and texts reproduced or quoted on this site infringe your legitimate rights and interests, please contact this site, and this site will correct and delete them in time. For copyright issues and website cooperation, please contact through outlook new era email:lwxsd@liaowanghn.com