Silk culture, blooming charm in fashion
2022-02-25
In the long process of development, silk has been endowed with rich cultural connotation, and its appearance has also changed with the times, releasing new vitality Today, with the active promotion of the construction of ecological civilization, silk culture, with its green concept of traditional handicrafts, has shown its style in the fashion trend What we provide to the world is not only silk as fabric, but also silk culture that embodies inheritance and innovation, and embodies the wisdom of technological practice and cultural creation of Chinese people from generation to generation Meticulous, intricate and icing on the cake... There are nearly 100 idioms related to "silk" in Chinese, and there are countless Chinese characters with "zhe" as the side. China's silk culture has a long history, extensive and profound. From the unearthed relics of sericulture and silk culture, the "silkworm Ivory cap shaped device" is about 7000 years ago, and the first artificially cut cocoon in human history is nearly 6000 years ago. In the long process of development, silk has been endowed with rich cultural connotation, and its appearance has also changed with the times, releasing new vitality. Cultural heritage is full of vitality Silk has the unique characteristics of long production process, difficult technology and high artistic aesthetics. Through complex, meticulous and ingenious procedures, the industrious and intelligent ancient Chinese people extracted elegant, soft and elegant silk from natural life and woven it into silk with exquisite workmanship and beauty like clouds, leaving many cultural heritages for modern people. "Sangji fish pond system in Huzhou, Zhejiang Province" was recognized as an important global agricultural cultural heritage by FAO, "Chinese traditional mulberry silk weaving technology" and "Nanjing Yunjin weaving technology" were included in the list of representative works of human intangible cultural heritage of UNESCO, and Shu brocade, song brocade, cloud brocade, fragrant cloud yarn, hangluo, Kesi and Suzhou embroidery were rated as national intangible cultural heritage projects. These cultural heritages in the silk field, combined with contemporary life and modern technology, continue to glow with new vitality. As one of the few agricultural and cultural heritages with a history of more than 2500 years in China and even in the world, "Sangji fish pond system in Huzhou, Zhejiang Province" has created the benefit of "both benefits and ten times the grain" through the mode of "planting mulberry on the foundation, feeding silkworm with mulberry leaves, raising fish with silkworm sand, fish manure pond and blocking mulberry with pond mud". In recent years, this agricultural cultural heritage has been further combined with modern agriculture and beautiful rural construction to promote the effectiveness of traditional Sangji fish ponds and make the traditional agricultural cultural heritage "live". For another example, "Brocade", which represents the highest level of silk weaving skills in ancient China, is still active in the field of contemporary culture and art after thousands of years, constantly innovating the inheritance mode. First, cross-border integration while adhering to the traditional process route. Not long ago, in the art exhibition "the light of extraordinary pearl couplet art", Qian Xiaoping, the representative successor of Song Jin, a national intangible cultural heritage project, used Song Jin skills to express the series of works of Italian painter Modigliani. In the silk thread light and shadow, the three-dimensional texture of the original character image is highlighted, showing the charm of the blending of eastern and Western art. Second, innovate technical means to prosper the modern brocade industry. "Brocade" is valued for its complex weaving and rich colors in silk. Brocade craft expert Li Jialin invented the "five color interweaving method", which changed the silk image expression mode and traditional brocade production mode used by various countries for more than 100 years, and created more than 4500 colors. In his hands, he produced modern brocade works such as silk scroll "the picture of the river during the Qingming Festival" and color brocade painting "the picture of Fuchun Mountain Residence". In addition, people have also improved the silk production mode to better meet the market consumption demand. The fragrant cloud gauze, which has been known as the "soft gold" in the silk industry for more than 600 years, was originally the crystallization of collective labor. The production of traditional fragrant cloud yarn generally requires dozens of craftsmen to operate at the same time, and has to go through "three washing, nine steaming and eighteen drying" for nearly a year. The production cycle of pure cloud yarn has been very low and expensive for hundreds of years. In recent years, by improving the dyeing and weaving skills, people have greatly improved the production efficiency and output of fragrant cloud yarn, and the production cost has also been reduced. Fragrant cloud yarn has entered more ordinary people's homes. Fashion trends show their skills Today, with the active promotion of the construction of ecological civilization, silk culture, with its green concept of traditional handicrafts, has shown its style in the fashion trend. "Hanfu", "cheongsam" and "new Chinese dress" with silk as important fabrics are leading the continuous innovation of traditional clothing culture. In 2014, its root was "Chinese", its soul was "ceremony", and its shape was "new". As the clothing of APEC leaders, it showed the world the style of Chinese clothing. In recent years, "Hanfu fever" has gradually sprung up, and activities such as "China Huafu day" and "National Silk Hanfu Festival" have attracted many young people to participate and are deeply loved. Then came the "cheongsam style" popular at home and abroad. Now, cheongsam has evolved into women's formal dress. In this new trend of clothing, silk is an indispensable material, whether it is a new Chinese dress that highlights temperament, a wide, thin and elegant Han dress and a graceful cheongsam - expressing the beauty of Oriental silk has become an international fashion. For example, Nanjing brocade with "inch brocade and inch gold" is an important Chinese element in today's international fashion industry. From the World Expo, International Film Festival to international fashion week, Chinese silk represented by yunjinhua clothing is constantly performing the innovative integration of tradition and fashion, shaping and interpreting the fashion "Chinese style". At the same time, a series of traditional Chinese brands have been incubated and expanded. Silk elements have been applied in fashion, clothing and home design, and the ancient silk has embarked on the road of fashion industry. For example, Suzhou Soochow silk weaving factory founded in 1919, Nanjing Yunjin Research Institute founded in 1957 and Chengdu Shujin factory founded in 1951 are now incarnating as innovative enterprises, winning development opportunities in domestic and international markets and interpreting contemporary fashion life. Science and technology enabled silk rebirth Integrate with science and technology, expand a new road for silk culture and make it better serve contemporary life. In recent years, silk innovative technologies and extension industries such as mulberry leaf tea, artificial intelligence customized silk and "Silk hard disk" have been emerging. Mulberry leaf tea refined by scientific baking and other processes has a mellow taste and pleasant fragrance. AI "fashion designers" can deeply understand consumers' personality characteristics and wearing needs through dialogue, and design unique digital art scarves in combination with fashion trends. Chinese scientific research institutions have also developed a "Silk hard disk", which takes silk as the storage medium like optical disk to write and read digital information. The iteration of technological renewal has expanded the application scenario of silk, and the formulation and release of silk inspection technical standards has continuously enhanced the international influence of China's silk. In 2014, the first international silk standard was formulated and implemented under the leadership of China. The raw silk electronic detection technology contained in the standard is led by China and recognized by the international silk industry. It is of great significance to improve the quality of raw silk around the world, promote silk economic and trade exchanges and enhance the international influence of China's silk. More than 2000 years ago, the Silk Road achieved the world's magnificent imagination of the East. Today, under the one belt, one road initiative, the economic and trade exchanges and cultural exchanges between countries along the line are becoming more frequent. Many silk producing and consuming countries are carrying out close exchanges and cooperation in the aspects of technology brand, creative design, history and culture, and marketing brand. The cultural spirit of the silk road has become a bridge and bridge for cross-cultural communication. Silk is a great invention of the Chinese nation and a cultural symbol of Chinese civilization. As a major producer and exporter of sericulture and silk raw materials, what we provide to the world is not only silk as fabric, but also silk culture with inheritance and innovation, and the wisdom of technical practice and cultural creation of Chinese people from generation to generation. Looking to the future, the ancient silk culture will bloom new brilliance on the road of inheritance and innovation. (outlook new era)
Edit：Yuanqi Tang Responsible editor：Xiao Yu
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