Meeting is parting
2021-12-27
Mogao Grottoes once slept for thousands of years in the deep wind and sand on the Bank of Daquan River Valley. Today, more than 1600 years later, the Buddha statues in Mogao Grottoes are already mottled, the color gradually fades, and the Scriptures are scattered everywhere. Even if there are all kinds of tenderness and thousands of reluctant to give up, it is undeniable that it is moving towards parting at the moment of being awakened. Fortunately, there are a group of Dunhuang people who deeply love Dunhuang Art and are persistent. They are trying to keep the pace of "leaving" the Mogao Grottoes. When I arrived at Dunhuang, I knew that the Mogao Grottoes could not be approached at will. Summer is the peak tourist season. In order to reduce the erosion of Buddha statues in the caves by breathing, the number of people entering the caves is strictly limited in Mogao Grottoes. Tourists can only visit 4 large grottoes. If they want to see 12 Grottoes in one day, they need to make an appointment in advance. There were more than 30 people in the same car, and only 5 or 6 people booked tickets to the eight special caves, including Ma Dou and I. The trouble is, I made an appointment to enter the cave at 8 a.m., but Ma Dou entered the cave at 11 a.m., and our tourist bus had to leave at 12 noon. We decided to take a chance. Before 8 o'clock, we lined up in the queue waiting to enter the cave. The ticket gate is a man in his 30s, wearing the uniform clothes of the staff of the Mogao Grottoes, with a work card hanging on his white shirt. Sure enough, the ticket inspector stopped Ma Dou. I said we were together, not to mention leaving at noon. Can you accommodate me? Anyway, the ticket inspector just shook his head: we have a limit on the number of people in each game. I said that in that case, let me give my chance to Ma Dou to watch. It's not easy for her to return home. I'll wait for her outside. The ticket inspector still shook his head: you should have a look at the exquisite art of Mogao Grottoes. With that, the ticket inspector took the initiative to take Ma Dou's ticket, walked up to a foreman and muttered a few words. The foreman took out a ballpoint pen and wrote a few words on the ticket. The ticket inspector came back and handed the ticket to Ma Dou: OK, come in quickly. I hope you will like Dunhuang. After entering, there was a semi-circular building. On the first floor, there was a live performance. Zhang Qian, an envoy to the western regions, found and sold the Taoist Wang Yuanli who had written the Dunhuang remains, and Chang Shuhong, the first president of the Dunhuang Research Institute who returned home for Dunhuang. These node figures in the history of Dunhuang took turns to speak about Dunhuang personally; On the second floor, there is a cinema and a holographic cinema. Camel bells ring on the screen. Businessmen draw water and drink horses here, take a nap and exchange Persian gemstones for the clothes of the Tang Dynasty. There is the sound of jingle in the temple. There are geisha singing and dancing on the grass platform, which reproduces the prosperity of the Silk Road; The ball screen movie hall wraps us with the exquisite digital images of 735 Grottoes in Mogao Grottoes. In a trance, we seem to be in the grottoes. After leaving the cinema, visitors boarded the buses in turn. Buses with Dunhuang Tourism signs rushed out and drove to the depths of the desert along a simple highway. It's half an hour's drive from the cinema to the cave. This is a great contribution made by fan Jinshi, the third president of Dunhuang Art Research Institute and daughter of Dunhuang, to the protection of Dunhuang. She said: many years later, Dunhuang is bound to disappear. What we do is to make her exist longer and longer. So she made digital Dunhuang and stored the exquisite murals and sculptures of Dunhuang in the form of holographic images; Then she marked out a large protection area and limited the number of people entering Dunhuang. When we arrived at the thousand Buddha grottoes, we were greeted by shade trees. These trees are tall and strong and have grown for a long time, which is completely different from what I expected. In my superficial cognition, Mogao Grottoes are large caves covered with murals under the cover of yellow sand. In fact, in 366 ad, Le Zun monk came to Dunhuang and was inspired by the gods to dig the first grottoes. Since then, good men and women, eminent monks and virtues, princes and nobles and ordinary citizens, regardless of their rank and rank, have dug large and small Buddhist grottoes on these three dangerous mountains, doing their own merits and virtues. Generation after generation, Mogao Grottoes have accumulated wisdom and brewing broad Buddhist culture. With a bunch of keys, the guide selectively opened eight representative Buddhist caves. No lights or cameras are allowed in the caves. In the cave, I saw Feitian, a group of virtuous monks who played music and danced in the air when they were giving lectures; I saw the rebound pipa. It was a foreign man with a Qiu face and black clothes. I want to go through many talented people on the prosperous silk road in those years; I also saw the picture of Wutai Mountain, the largest landscape figure; I also saw the deformity left by the infamous Wallner after stripping the murals. Standing in front of the Taoist tower, I was thinking, on that stormy night, if Wang Yuanli did not find the secret of Dunhuang suicide notes, what would the Mogao Grottoes be like today? Wang Yuanli didn't have much culture and was forced to become a Taoist for his livelihood. After he found 60000 volumes of Dunhuang documents in cave 17, in exchange for repair funds, he took out some scriptures and gave them to the officials of the current Dynasty, but they never came back. This also laid a curse for Britain, France and Japan to defraud a large number of valuable documents with silver in the future; If the officials who had received Wang Yuanli's scriptures could truthfully report them level by level, the Dunhuang remains might be preserved. However, time is changeable and things are unpredictable. It is difficult to judge the merits and demerits of Taoist Wang Yuanli. Ma Dou looks up in front of cave 96. Cave 96 is commonly known as the nine storey building. The red wooden cave eaves outside the cave are up to 45 meters high. It is built close to the mountain and has a magnificent momentum. It is the landmark building of Mogao cave. Inside the cave is a 35.5m giant Maitreya seated Buddha built in the early Tang Dynasty. The big Buddha has rich and sparse eyebrows. It is ground into fine powder and colored with precious stones, showing the strength of the country in the Tang Dynasty. Taking the nine storey building as the axis, on the left and right sides, there are small exquisite Grottoes layer by layer. The wind and sand soaked the time and left strange traces on the rocks. Mogao Grottoes once slept for thousands of years in the deep wind and sand on the Bank of Daquan River Valley. Today, more than 1600 years later, the Buddha statues in Mogao Grottoes are already mottled, the color gradually fades, and the Scriptures are scattered everywhere. Even if there are all kinds of tenderness and thousands of reluctant to give up, it is undeniable that it is moving towards parting at the moment of being awakened. Fortunately, there are a group of Dunhuang people who deeply love Dunhuang Art and are persistent. They are trying to keep the pace of "leaving" the Mogao Grottoes. (outlook new era)
Edit：Yuanqi Tang Responsible editor：Xiao Yu
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