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Culture

Pea bumping is the soul of Sichuan winter food

2021-11-24   

In the cold and humid Sichuan, Wufu enjoys the sugar gourd crispy by the cold wind, and there is no luxury of eating ice cream in the heating room and watching the heavy snow outside the window. In winter in Sichuan, it would be better to have a bowl of steaming food to drive away the cold. In this bowl of food, it's best to have a "soul": pea tip. According to the Sichuan dialect, you may have to say "pea Dian Dian Er". Pea tip is better than Sichuan people It is equivalent to the chicken fir in Yunnan I've heard of pea seedlings and know peas, but what is a pea tip? As the name suggests, the tip of a pea is the uppermost part of a pea seedling. Pea tip is not an ordinary pea seedling. In the words of farmers, if you pick the pea tip, you won't bear peas again. In autumn, some pea tips are also sold on the street, but the fiber is still a little thick, and the taste is not good. Only when it is cold enough to wear down jacket, according to the season of Sichuan, it is almost snowy and snowy, and the pea tip is the best at this time. Sichuan people like to use overlapping words for pea tip, sugar oil Baba, radish tassel and green vegetable seedlings. Pea tip is full of Sichuan characteristics both in terms of statement and eating method. On a chilly day, boil a pot of water, sprinkle a handful of Zhongjiang vermicelli, add a handful of pea tips that can be scalded in minutes, nest an egg, and add cooked oil, pepper, vinegar, soy sauce, green onion flowers and minced garlic. The most important thing is to use hot soup to melt a spoonful of bright lard. With the aroma of lard, instant noodles and the refreshing fragrance of peas, no Sichuan person can refuse such a bowl of noodles in winter. Although it's noodles, most of them know that it's nothing more than the tip of the pea on the chopsticks. It's actually "the meaning of the drunk is not wine". If you think this is just an ordinary vegetable, it's a big mistake. How do you describe the grandness and grandness of pea tip to Sichuan people? Only chicken fir can compare with Yunnan. Chicken fir is produced from July to September every year, and the taste appreciation period is only more than two months. For the rest of the time, fried chicken fir can be used to relieve the pain of thinking about taste. Although the pea tip can eat for a winter, as long as the weather warms up, the pea tip on the market will immediately "disappear". Even if you occasionally see one or two selling, you can't find the fragrance and taste like chewing wax again. Therefore, in this winter time, Sichuan people are really riveted to eat: the bottom, rinse soup, and even take the initiative to light the mandarin duck pot, just to rinse the pea tip of chopsticks after the big fish and meat, so as to dissipate the heavy taste brought by the hot pot. Shanghai green cabbage and Chinese cabbage taste too rough compared with it, and Chinese cabbage and baby cabbage are too soft and rotten compared with it. Its taste is as clever as duck tongue. As soon as winter comes, every family takes it as the first choice vegetable. The tip of a pea from a foreign land Can be a solution to homesickness For foreigners who have never tasted it, once they have tasted it, they can't help but leave a good story of "a thousand miles with a pea tip". Ms. Zhang went to university in Chengdu in the late 1980s. During the winter vacation, the Beijing students in the same dormitory didn't plan to take other specialties home, so they planned to take a big bag of Chengdu pea tips back to let their parents taste this Sichuan cuisine. In order to save luggage space, on the night of getting on the train, eight students in a dormitory pinched a lot of peas all night. Sichuan people boast that peas are sharp, not tender, but "fat". Walk past a vegetable stall and stop for a while. The enthusiastic boss will say, "buy some pea tips. They are very fat. They arrive in the morning." about half of the pea tips bought at the vegetable stall are picked, leaving only the fattest section. This is the story of "girls' dormitory picking pea tips overnight". I don't know how the pea tips brought to Beijing behave in Beijing's boiled mutton. For Sichuan people, the taste of pea tip is mostly nostalgia for leaving home. "When I was studying in Macao, I had to go to Zhuhai once a week just to buy a handful of pea tips and the wonton near the gate to freshen my tongue." in Xiaoliang's heart, the pea tips that could not be eaten elsewhere became the "white moonlight" in his heart. The eating habits developed at home, such as fresh walnuts to eat in summer and pea tips to eat in winter, have become particularly sensitive after studying outside the province. As soon as the season comes, they are carried on the tip of their heart to remind themselves that they are in a foreign country. In his fifth year of study away from home, Xiao Liang accidentally found a pea tip in the supermarket, which can finally offset homesickness. Together with friends from Northeast China, Anhui and Sichuan, they crowded through the crowded Hengqin port every weekend to have a good meal in Zhuhai. In supermarkets, pea tips are packed into disposable packaging boxes and covered with plastic wrap. They are not the kind of tender green seen at home, but some deep green, which means that they are "old" and have a greatly reduced taste. Look at the price again. It's amazing. The weight that can be done at home for a few dollars costs 20 or 30 yuan. There is no other choice, and I can't manage so much. After I buy it, I'll ask the boss to add it to the shrimp wonton and a spoonful of cooked oil pepper. In stuffy weather, I can also sweat a lot, which is a lot more comfortable. "Now when I think of the tip of peas, my memory is no longer just the taste of my family. The shrimp wonton in Guangdong, with some old tip of peas, is also remembered." Anhui friends who used to study with Xiao Liang are now far away in the United States. She told Xiao Liang that she really wanted to taste Sichuan. Although the tip of the pea eaten in Zhuhai was also summarized as "Sichuan flavor", Xiao Liang couldn't help but be proud of himself. Anhui friends also said that they wanted to sprinkle some peas in their yard to see if they could grow pea tips. Xiao Liang thought that the "Sichuan memory" planted in Zhuhai could not be regarded as the nostalgia of the Anhui classmate. However, in two years, she missed her so much. It may be due to delicious food or beautiful memories. (outlook new era)

Edit:Yuanqi Tang Responsible editor:Xiao Yu

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